The longest construction project in modern history…

We went to see Sagrada Familia (Holy Family), the basilica in Barcelona planned and partially created by Gaudi… it’s insanely beautiful.

The altar. I think it rather looks like Jesus was crucified on a merry-go-round, but I didn’t think the tour guide would appreciate that observation.

Started in 1882, they’ve been working on it ever since. It was a rural village in 1882 on the outskirts of Barcelona; now it’s an integral part of the city.

They didn’t even get the roof completed until 2010… so when it rained, the water came in.

They’re trying to get it finished in 2026, a century after Gaudi’s death – they still have nine of 18 towers to complete. The Director General of Segrada Familia thinks it may be 2030 – 2040 before it’s actually finished.

Side nave of the cathedral, face on, and from the side. The colors from the stained glass light up the nave and represent summer.
From the other side nave, representing winter. The colors change as the sun moves.

The artists participating on the construction are very disparate in their styles – my art education is lacking in terms of being able to identify them, but to give you an idea:

Top L, clockwise: Peter betraying Jesus with a kiss next to a “magic square” – in any direction the numbers add up to 33, the age he reportedly died; the Holy Family at the outside of the entrance – yes, that IS a pigeon on Jesus’ head, I guess they don’t want to stick those spiky bird preventers on his head, although I think they could make one resembling a halo – Gaudi used locals for his models, and the most recently born baby at the time was a girl, so…; the ceiling above the altar; St. George (he of the Dragon fame), stands guard inside the entrance to the cathedral.

The tour took us around the cathedral – kind of wishing we’d done the recorded audio tour rather than the more expensive in-person guide, because her accent made it difficult to understand.

However, that gave us the ability to elevator up the Nativity tower (they have two finished, the Passion and the Nativity) and walk the 300 step spiral stone staircase down.

From the top of the tower… it’s a long way down.

I was rather hoping the interior of the descent would be like the inside of Washington Monument in DC – my sister and I got to walk down that 896 step monster about 20 years ago, it’s crazy, there’s huge marble stones purchased by the states, fraternal organizations, Sunday schools, etc.

No such luck at the basilica. The obscenely ornate exterior is remarkably plain on the inside. The occasional window lets you look outside, but nothing to adorn the stairs.

It seemed to go on forever, and this was only one of the staircases we descended.
Hot. Very hot. But worth it.

Then, a vacation fail on my part. We’d thought to go to Montserrat, the monastery high in the mountains above the city. However, I forgot to check the national holiday dates – something I’ve messed up in the past.

Montserrat as seen from the business district of Barcelona.

September 11 is big to us Americans, but it’s also important to Catalonia, that northeastern region of Spain/very south of France. In 1714, Barcelona surrendered to the Bourbons, starting a period of repression for the Catalans.

They refer to it as their Independence Day, but it’s kind of in reverse – it originated as a rallying point to fight for it, rather than when they obtained it, and it serves as a Memorial Day for those who died defending the city.

Catalonia is an autonomous region of Spain, but they’re still gunning for their own country.

Taken from our balcony… one of the parades, this one heading to the Arc de Triomf.

As five separate parades planned to end all together at the departure point of the train for Monserrat, we opted to forgo that little adventure for the day. I really don’t want to get caught up in anything, and heaven knows what’ll happen to the trains. We’ll go another time.

Instead we did the hop-on hop-off bus, of which we did little offing.

2 thoughts on “The longest construction project in modern history…

  1. FASCINATING. LOVE the history, and REALLY LOVE the pictures. This is definitely on my bucket list of something to see. Would love to talk about it in person with you. Are you EVER coming home???

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